Wheel Studs and Nuts

While removing the front wheel the stud came out of hub. They screw in the front hubs and the end of the bolt is then split or burred over to act as a locking tab. While removing the front road wheel one of the studs came loose from the hub and the burr on the back looks to have damaged the thread in the hub on the way out. A 1/2 BSF tap thankfully cleaned up the mess.  

Seems to be a common problem on the Ten, 80 and 90 cars and often the studs unwind leaving them attached to the wheel at the side of the road making changing a tyre fun. 

The wheel nuts (part no. P22369) are the same part number across the Ten, 80 & 90. However the studs are different, the Ten uses (part no. P22368).

With heat and penetrating oil I managed to get some movement on the wheel nut but went tight as soon as the heat was removed. Ended up cutting the nut and splitting it with some damage to the thread. Hopefully sourcing replacements isn't too difficult. 

As on the rear of the car it looks like a oil/grease catcher is fitted in the form of a steel cone at the back of the hub. This will need cutting and welding back up as suggested in the manual. Replacement studs and Loctite 270 is looking favourable. Pictures are from a Hillman Minx workshop manual which is generally similar. I'm writing this before taking the hub apart!

Both 1/2 BSF Wheel studs and nuts are a rare beast. Unable to source any I decided on 12.9 Cap Head 1/2 BSF bolts with the head removed and Loctite 270. ebay - Fixball

Wheel nuts weren't readily available either,  Red Triangle - Alvis Spares came to the rescue. Part number: TA14

Rear Lamp upgrade

Original lights didn't have a built in indicator, a previous owner had fitted external indicators and removed the functionality of the Trafficators.  Although I prefer the look of the original Lucas D-Lamp with stop & tail the indicators were very much an addition. As part of the re-wire the Trafficators will be back in use and we have included an additional circuit for warning hazards.

After spending what can only be described as a silly amount of cash on new rear lights it does allow the indicator to be included within the light. Still not sure why they didn't amend the design to put the indicator on the outer edge of the lens, seems odd seeing it inboard. I originally purchased lights with conventional bulbs however while testing on the bench the hot melt glue used to secure the bulb holders melted and stuck to the clear lens, this prevented the lamp unit from opening. I sent these back and was offered an LED version, something about LED bulbs I don't like, just seem harsh but no other choice.

 The quality of the chrome is ok, the water proofing of the lights I'm really not sure about, not convinced the LED panels will survive the UK weather.

As with the headlights we created an assembly that allows the rear panel to be removed from the car if required. It is designed to drop down on flexible wires to allow access to the spare wheel. 

The cable is 1mm Thinwall rated at 16amps and sleeved with cable heat shrink and 6-way AMP Econoseal connectors.

Sunbeam Talbot Ten - Rear Lamps Wiring Diagram