Car hasn't run that well since purchase. Difficult to start (too much static advance?) and stalling when coming to a stop were the main issues and a healthy dose of black smoke when accelerating.
Experience suggested start with the basics of ignition, new distributor cap, leads and plugs. Check the timing and start afresh.
I checked the NGK catalogue not knowing if the correct plugs had been fitted to the engine ordering the correct set.
Checked the clearance through spark plug hole with a cable tie while turning over the engine, "yeah that seems fine" and fired up the engine.
Car no longer turns over.... The realisation you've messed as the car uses short plugs and you've fitted long.
Engine removal
Say to say the engine suffered from a few leaks as anyone does as they approach 80 years old. It needed doing anyway so although annoyed I'd messed up it was an opportunity to fix a multitude of other jobs that needed sorting from oil leaks, failing coolant hoses, wiring bodged and broken bolts etc.
With everything stripped down the hardest part was releasing the cylinder head. A couple of days soaking in PlusGas, blast of MAP gas and gently working the studs I managed to remove them all.
With 4 bent exhaust valves, a spark plug thread stripped from cylinder 3 it was a mess. Plus the existing damage of head gasket blowing across cylinder 2 & 3, corrosion on the edge of the head gasket firing ring and generally not sealing it wasn't a pretty sight.
At this point the cylinder head is pretty much scrap. My main concern was how much valve clearance I would have once the head had been repaired and then skimmed. After 80 years of a unknown number of skims until we get it back I won't know.
A trip to Cambridge Rebores and we agreed on welding to repair the corrosion, an insert to fix the spark plug followed by a skim. That meant I could pull the engine out and try to tidy up the block.
The block had numerous sheard bolts and existing helicoils in place. Some of these stripped on removal and were replaced. Engine hadn't been with anti-freeze judging by the sludge present.
I didn't strip the block down fully, it was obvious it needed a re-build but the engine was running before I broke it so a case of knowing when to stop digging.
Part availability - Unlike our Austin 7 finding parts for the Ten is very tricky with only a couple of suppliers. Dave at https://sunbeam-talbot-spares.co.uk/ came up trumps and supplied a full gasket set along with a new set of exhaust valves. Very satisfying removing the original Rootes waxed paper
New studs to replace the stripped and corroded originals.
Both the inlet and exhaust valves were lapped back in. It was clear none of the valves were sealing which gave me hope of a decent gain.
Tappet clearances. The "Handbook of instruction" is clear on the process. Unlike any modern car the handbook is actually helpful!
Check every 3000 miles. Inlet clearance 0.010 in & 0.015 in on the exhaust with the engine cold. The best method of checking this clearance is to turn the engine for half a revolution after the inlet valve has closed, when both valves will be fully closed.
If adjustment is necessary, unscrew the locknut and turn the tappet screw until the correct clearance is obtained. To prevent the tappet itself from turning during this operation insert the small steel strip, provided in the tool kit, between the two tappets. Recheck the clearance after the locknut has been tightened down to ensure that it has not altered.
Trial fit
With the head gasket in place on a new gasket I could trial fit the head and get an indication of how much clearance I would have. Dave at https://sunbeam-talbot-spares.co.uk/ was able to supply a thicker head gasket than I had sourced from ebay. My thinking was any clearance I can gain will be a bonus.
Research suggested 2mm of clearance should be enough... We had 2.2mm on the highly accurate blu-tack without the head being torqued down. The head gasket is made up of sandwich of Copper, Asbestos and Copper, measuring the old head gasket at 1.7mm, less the skim & how much it will compress. Close call, need to torque down and then gently turn by hand. Main issue is the spark plugs so planned to fit an extra sealing washer to give me some additional clearance.
At this point I found STAR - Sunbeam Talbot Alpine Register.
A hugely knowledgeable bunch who gave me some info on torque settings for the cylinder head. The general advice was 35 - 40 ft/lb, much more you are likely to strip a thread.
With the rest of the parts cleaned up it was re-assembly time. The water jacket cover had been repaired previously and was a mess. The oil filler and fuel pump mount was somewhat warped, wasn't convinced it would seal or possibly crack when bolting back on. Held it flat on some 80 grit and it came it well, previously it was stuck on with a mass of silicone.
A combination of worn sprockets, a non standard length chain, additional rubber tensioner from a different car there wasn't much I could do. I've searched everywhere looking for an alternative or old new stock with no luck. Unfortunately it is a case of re-fitting what I have. The club have said the side valve engine will run and run so don't be too worried about the state of the timing gear.
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| Worn sprocket with tooth damage |
Update 01/10/2025 - New sprockets now available
Sunbeam Talbot Ten Repalcement Timing Sprockets - Crankshaft and Camshaft
Re-fitting
Compared to a modern car it is a doddle to re-fit the engine. Clutch aligned with a spare gearbox input shaft and then ready to lift back in.
Conclusion
Overall not really any better than before. After a few trips it was clear the head gasket wasn't sealing with small bubbles appearing along the edge of the cylinder head. The valves had also been slightly impacting with a slight mark in the cylinder head.
Options available include a new aluminium cylinder head casting which STAR have re-manufactured, another 2nd hand head or look to remove some existing metal from the existing head to create clearance.
The STAR club came up trumps and suggested checking spares container as there may be an old cylinder head you can re-use. The club have an annual spares day and got to put some faces to names and after much help from other members found a spare block, pistons, piston liners, bearing shells and a steel cylinder head. Price agreed it was back home with the loot.
Now a new aluminium cylinder head would be nice but at £1000 I just can't justify it. Its not expensive for 1 off re-creation but I just don't have the budget. Once I re-build a new engine however it would be a perfect.
